Municipality of Castiglion Fibocchi
Piazza Municipio, 1 - 52029 Castiglion Fibocchi (AR)
Tel: +39 0575 1686
Fax: 0575 47516
E-mail: segreteria@comune.castiglionfibocchi.ar.it
PEC: c.castiglionfibocchi@postacert.toscana.it
Tax Code and VAT 00284440518
BIG BENCH AND GELLO BISCARDO
ITINERARY 3
1. Big Bench
Situated at 525 meters above sea level, the Big Bench offers a privileged vantage point. As you sit and gaze ahead, you can immediately spot the compact profile of Castiglion Fibocchi below, with its red roofs and stone churches. In the distance, the urban basin of Arezzo unfolds on clear days. To the right, the view extends toward the Val di Chiana and lower Valdarno, while to the left you can glimpse the entrance to the Casentino valley, where the first wooded ridges rise toward the Pratomagno.
Stopping here is highly recommended—it’s an opportunity to enjoy a vast, layered panorama that narrates both the physical and historical geography of the area. The site is also accessible by car; simply follow the road signs for Gello Biscardo and then for the Big Bench along a final, navigable stretch of dirt road.
Welcome to Itinerary 3. This route takes you beyond the historic center of Castiglion Fibocchi, along a path that blends breathtaking landscapes, archaeology, and local traditions. It is ideal for those eager to immerse themselves in a broader, more natural dimension, exploring the village’s surroundings—from panoramic ridges to small, time-honored settlements. In fact, the trail connects the highlands above the town with the mountain village of Gello Biscardo, traversing captivating rural environments.
The first stop is Big Bench No. 111, installed in 2020 as part of the international Big Bench Community Project, which promotes slow tourism and immersive landscape experiences through giant benches placed in scenic locations. The bench in Castiglion Fibocchi is painted yellow—a tribute to the blooming broom (ginestre) that lights up the slopes of the Pratomagno in spring and early summer, as well as to one of the most cherished views by the locals.
Directions to the Next Stop
Continue along the trail heading east, passing briefly through olive groves and thickets. In just a few minutes, you will reach the ruins of the Pieve di San Quirico in Alfiano, the second stop on the itinerary.
2. Ruins of the Pieve di San Quirico in Alfiano
The second stop takes you to one of the oldest and most significant sites in the region: the ruins of the Pieve di San Quirico in Alfiano. Nestled among thriving vegetation in an isolated yet strategic location, this ancient parish church is one of the earliest testimonies to the Christian presence in Upper Valdarno.
Documentary sources confirm its existence as early as 1099, but archaeological excavations conducted between 2013 and 2016 have uncovered even older remains, attributable to an early high-medieval church (late 8th – early 11th century). Reconstructed in the 12th century in a Romanesque style, the pieve remained active for several centuries, serving a vast surrounding area and playing a crucial spiritual and administrative role—with as many as six subordinate churches under its jurisdiction.
Today, amid the vegetation reclaiming the site, portions of the original masonry, two Romanesque single-arched windows, and the base of a liturgical cistern are still visible. Several stone artifacts, along with liturgical and domestic objects recovered during the excavations, are exhibited in a display hall inside the Palazzo delle Ex-Stigmatine in the center of Castiglion Fibocchi.
Over time, the pieve was gradually abandoned: in the 15th century it lost its baptismal function to the Church of San Pietro in Pezzano and was converted first into a rural dwelling and later into an animal shelter. By the mid-20th century, the site had fallen into complete ruin.
Beyond its historical significance, the pieve retains an emotional resonance for the community. Until the 1970s, it was the destination for Holy Week processions and moments of reflection. Even today, visitors to these ruins can sense the profound sacredness and continuity emanating from the site.
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Directions to the Next Stop
From the pieve, continue along the trail heading northeast through a mix of woodland and open countryside. In about 20–30 minutes, you will arrive at the stone settlement of Gello Biscardo, the third stop on the itinerary.
3. Gello Biscardo
Nestled at around 600 meters above sea level on the southern slope of the Pratomagno, Gello Biscardo is a small stone village of medieval origin—once a fortified castle belonging to the Ubertini family. Its panoramic location, compact structure, and architectural quality make it one of the best-preserved rural settlements in the Castiglion area.
The stone houses, external staircases, sloping roofs, and narrow cobbled alleys bear testimony to an ancient community life closely linked to mountain agriculture, forestry work, and small-scale artisanal activities. Despite the depopulation that took place after World War II, Gello has retained a strong cultural identity, which has been revitalized through restoration projects and local promotional initiatives.
The name “Gello” derives from the Latin agellum, a diminutive of ager (“field”), meaning “small estate” or “cultivated land”—a term typical of rural settlements active since Roman or early medieval times. The additional term “Biscardo” was likely adopted later to distinguish this Gello from others in Tuscany. According to some sources, it may derive from an old Germanic personal name (perhaps Bisc(h)ardus), used to identify a family or local landowner. The full toponym appears in medieval cadastres and documents.
What makes the village truly unique is its intangible cultural heritage—a collection of popular tales and legends, both ironic and surreal, passed down through generations. Some of these stories are even inscribed on the walls of houses, forming a spontaneous route that invites visitors to discover the village through its narratives.
Among the best-known are "The Moon in the Well," where locals, mistaking the moon’s reflection for the moon itself, try to “rescue” it with ropes and sticks; "The Case Against the Sun," which recounts a symbolic trial waged by the inhabitants against the sun for making them sweat excessively; and "The Donkey’s Eggs," inspired by the discovery of a polished stone mistaken for a miraculous egg. These stories, blending innocence, ingenuity, and humor, reflect a worldview delightfully attributed to the so-called “crazy ones of Gello.”
Today, visitors—whether hikers, walkers, or enthusiasts of quaint mountain villages—are drawn to Gello Biscardo. Strolling its streets is like entering a world where reality and fantasy coexist, and where simplicity itself becomes a narrative.
This stop concludes Itinerary 3—a journey that has taken you through rolling hills, ancient parish churches, sweeping panoramas, and heartfelt local stories. If you’ve begun your exploration here, we invite you to complete your visit by experiencing the other two thematic itineraries as well.
Other Itineraries
Itinerary 1 – Carnival and the Secrets of the Village: Discover the tradition of the Figli di Bocco, the historic churches, and ancient towers.
Itinerary 2 – Past, Present, and Future Along the Setteponti: Explore Romanesque parish churches, rural architectures, and contemporary artistic inspirations.
