Municipality of Castiglion Fibocchi
Piazza Municipio, 1 - 52029 Castiglion Fibocchi (AR)
Tel: +39 0575 1686
Fax: 0575 47516
E-mail: segreteria@comune.castiglionfibocchi.ar.it
PEC: c.castiglionfibocchi@postacert.toscana.it
Tax Code and VAT 00284440518
PAST, PRESENT, AND FUTURE ALONG THE SETTEPONTI
ITINERARY 2
1. Church of San Pietro in Pezzano
In 1583 it was entrusted to the Company of the Annunciation, and in the 18th century it temporarily served as a burial site. Between the late 19th century and the early decades of the 20th century, it underwent restoration works, including a refurbishment in a style led by architect Giuseppe Castellucci—a prominent figure in the Arezzo cultural scene between the late 19th century and the early 20th century, known for his commitment to restoring historical buildings and enhancing the Tuscan artistic heritage.
Inside, the church houses a 14th-century fresco of the Annunciation attributed to Andrea di Nerio, a painter active in Arezzo during the 14th century. Considered one of the principal followers of Taddeo Gaddi, he was instrumental in spreading the Giottesque style in the Arezzo area. His works are distinguished by the composure of the figures, the sobriety of the scenes, and a profound expressiveness, as evident in the fresco at Pezzano. The scene, set on a rear wall, portrays the Archangel Gabriel and the Virgin in a silent, intense dialogue: joined hands, refined drapery, golden halos, and absorbed gazes. Despite some gaps, the work retains elements typical of late Gothic painting in transition to the Renaissance and stands among the few surviving remnants of the church’s original decoration.
Today, the church is accessible only on special occasions. Nevertheless, it remains a reference point for the community, where architecture, art, and the landscape merge to tell the silent yet eloquent story of the territory’s cultural and spiritual roots.
The first stop on Itinerary 2 – Past, Present, and Future Along the Setteponti – is the Church of San Pietro in Pezzano. Located in the Pezzano area at the strategic crossroads between two important thoroughfares already active in ancient times—the modern Setteponti provincial road and the Via Vecchia Aretina—its privileged position, notable since the medieval era, naturally led to the establishment of a sacred building serving both the agricultural communities and the travelers crossing these lands. In particular, the Setteponti partly follows the ancient route of the Cassia Vetus, a Roman consular road connecting Arezzo and Fiesole that for centuries guided the organization of the territory. Today, the landscape still bears traces of that past: parish churches, country farmhouses, small shrines, and rural villas tell a story of continuity and adaptation.
At the heart of this road network lies Castiglion Fibocchi, whose historic role was defined by its strategic location and its links with prominent local families, such as the Pazzi del Valdarno. Emblematic of this centrality is the Church of San Pietro in Pezzano, now integrated into the municipal cemetery. Erected in an area where cultivation, residences, farms, and small artisanal activities intertwine, it stands as a testament to a landscape that remains vibrant and productive. Once a religious landmark for rural communities, the church preserves a strong symbolic and scenic value. Its location along the Setteponti and its proximity to farmhouses and Leopoldine residences make it one of the most representative examples of the evolution of the Tuscan agrarian landscape between the 18th and 19th centuries.
Consecrated in 1232, the church was initially subordinated to the parish church of San Quirico Sopr’Arno, from which it later inherited central liturgical functions, including the baptismal font.
Directions to Reach the Next Stop
From the entrance of the municipal cemetery, take the Via Vecchia Aretina to the left, leaving the church behind. After about 800 meters, turn onto the dirt road on the left which leads to the Cappannelle area, where the remains of the ancient Cassia Vetus can be found.
2. Discovering the Remains of the Ancient Cassia Vetus
The second stop on Itinerary 2 offers a glimpse into the most remote past of the region through the remains of the ancient Cassia Vetus—a Roman consular road that connected Arezzo to Fiesole and formed the backbone of Upper Valdarno’s organization. Traced during the Republican era, the Cassia Vetus followed the highlands to avoid the marshy lands of the valley floor, maintaining its elevation along the ridge between the two banks of the Arno.
In the Cappannelle area, the ancient route still emerges among vineyards and wild vegetation: regularly arranged stones, gentle undulations of the terrain, and barely perceptible segments of cobblestones are all that is needed to recognize the trace of a civilization that has left a profound, invisible yet persistent imprint on both the landscape and memory.
It is said that it was precisely to monitor and safeguard this important travel route that, between the 11th and 12th centuries, the first fortified nucleus of Castiglion Fibocchi was born—a raised, easily defensible position, and importantly, close to a route frequented by armies, merchants, and pilgrims. Its foundation was no accident but the result of a logic intertwining military necessity, territorial control, and agricultural exploitation. Even today, many scholars recognize that this proximity to the Cassia Vetus is one of the key elements explaining the birth and development of the village.
Although the findings are fragmentary, they represent one of the most tangible testimonies to the role that Roman road networks played in shaping the territory. The path leading to the remains is currently inaccessible due to necessary safety measures and issues related to the delineation of responsibilities between private and public property. Moreover, plans for future archaeological investigations are underway to fully enhance the site. The vision is that, in the near future, this section will be fully integrated into the local cultural and tourist offerings, giving everyone the opportunity to rediscover it.
Directions to Reach the Next Stop
The next stop of the itinerary is dispersed and consists of the historic Leopoldine farmhouses along the Setteponti provincial road. Among the most significant are “Il Poggiale,” “San Pietro,” and “Ca’ Maggiore,” easily recognizable by their rational, symmetrical, and imposing architecture. Some of these have even become ingrained in the Italian cinematic imagination: for instance, Il Poggiale was one of the filming locations for the renowned film “La vita è bella” by Roberto Benigni.
Staying on the cinema theme, those interested can make a slight detour toward Monsoglio, in the direction of Laterina, to reach Il Giuncale—the estate that starred in another great classic of Italian comedy, “Il Ciclone” by Leonardo Pieraccioni.
3. Oscar Leopoldine Farmhouses – “Il Poggiale,” “San Pietro,” “Ca’ Maggiore” (and Il Giuncale)
The third stop on Itinerary 2 unfolds along the Setteponti provincial road, in one of the most scenically captivating stretches of the Valdarno. Here, nestled among olive groves, vineyards, and gentle hills, some of the most beautiful Leopoldine farmhouses in the area emerge: “San Pietro,” “Ca’ Maggiore,” and “Il Poggiale.” These ancient rural homes were born during the extensive agrarian reform promoted in the 18th century by Grand Duke Pietro Leopoldo of Lorraine, from whom they take their name.
The Leopoldine buildings represent one of the most successful expressions of Tuscan rural architecture: rational, symmetrical, and functional structures designed to be self-sufficient agricultural centers, whilst remaining harmoniously integrated into the landscape. Their distinctive features—including a central loggia, a dovecote, an external staircase, and balanced volumes—are still visible and recognizable along the Setteponti, testifying to a historic agricultural practice that shaped the territory with care and insight.
While these residences are not open to internal visits, as they belong to private owners and are often used as guesthouses or rural homes, a stroll along the provincial road or through the adjacent farm lanes allows visitors to admire their aesthetics and integration within the landscape, surrounded by tree-lined rows, cypress avenues, and glimpses of the Arno valley. Among them, Il Poggiale stands out and is the subject of an important restoration project led by the Fraternity of the Laics of Arezzo—a historic institution that has safeguarded and celebrated the region’s cultural and agricultural heritage for centuries. The ongoing work seeks to revive the building, with the probable goal of transforming it into a museum dedicated to the memory of rural civilization.
It is no coincidence that this stop bears the title “Oscar Leopoldine Farmhouses”: Il Poggiale was one of the chosen locations for the filming of *La vita è bella*, Roberto Benigni’s masterpiece that won three Academy Awards. Just a few kilometers further downstream, in the nearby locality of Monsoglio, lies Il Giuncale, another celebrated Leopoldine farmhouse that has become an icon of Italian cinema thanks to Leonardo Pieraccioni’s film *Il Ciclone*. Along this stretch of the Setteponti, the beauty of the Tuscan countryside intertwines with historical memory and cinematic imagination, offering a fresh and poetic glimpse into a landscape that tells its own story.
Directions to Reach the Final Stop
The last stop of Itinerary 2 is located not far away, along the same road axis. Continuing on the Setteponti provincial road toward Castiglion Fibocchi, you will encounter several examples of contemporary street art, created within the Parco Donatori di Sangue by artists such as Mozz and Ninjaz. Here, the rural landscape merges with urban creativity, uniting tradition and innovation, and inviting you to see even the most familiar places with fresh eyes.
4. Street art – Mozz, Ninjaz and Other Inspirations
The symbols of the lily and the town hall, rendered in a vibrant and dreamlike style, have become emblems of belonging and remembrance.
More than a mere urban decoration, the project represents a journey of artistic and participatory renewal that has involved schools, residents, and volunteers. The park, inaugurated in 2023, is now an open space for the community where nature, art, and memory converge. It stands as a tangible testament to a territory that knows how to renew itself while keeping its roots firmly intact.
This stop symbolically concludes Itinerary 2, providing a vivid contrast to the Romanesque churches and rural Leopoldine farmhouses previously explored. But the journey doesn’t have to end here.
Unexpected and powerful, this stop reveals the most contemporary side of Castiglion Fibocchi. Located in the Blood Donors Park on Viale Europa—easily reached through the main entrance when coming from Arezzo—this site has become a haven for street art, transforming a corner of the village into a place of storytelling and shared identity.
Everything began with the “Sogni Primari” project, created by artists Mozz and Ninjaz, supported by the Regional Council of Tuscany and realized in collaboration with the local administration and community associations. The mural, which spans a large wall overlooking the valley, is a visual narrative that traces the roots of Castiglion Fibocchi from 1860—the year the town voted against annexation to the Kingdom of Sardinia—up to the present day.
A little-known yet significant episode: In that year, Castiglion Fibocchi was among the few Tuscan towns to oppose annexation, dreaming of a different, autonomous future. This stance even led some to refer, with a touch of irony, to a hypothetical “Separate Kingdom”—an evocative name born from popular imagination and enshrined in the collective memory as a symbol of independent spirit and critical outlook toward central authority. Today, this reference forms an integral part of the local identity, reinterpreted with pride and wit through public art.
Other Itineraries
Itinerary 1 – Carnival and the Secrets of the Village: A journey into the history and traditions of the historic center.
Itinerary 3 – Big Bench and Gello Biscardo: A route through nature, breathtaking panoramas, and rich traditions that blends contemporary installations with ancient stories, revealing the most evocative corners of the region.
